I've heard they break... I've even seen a broken, re-welded one in Manchester. Common sense tells me not to buy one
but... they're £120, my frame might be cracked, and I am pretty skint... so... anyone here got one, or know if they're any shitter than Pearson fixed frames...
I've been riding a 58 dolan like that for about 6 or 8 months and its fine, slightly older version without internal headset. I ride it quite hard up and down kerbs and with a front brake for endos, rides quite nicely, bit ship like for me as I normally ride 54-5 (fits fine with flat bars)
Having said all that I'm trading it in in a week or two for something steel and tougher, hope it doesn't break in the meantime.
Not 100% sure if the frame's cracked, but the paint around the weld by the BB/seatttube is cracked, so I think the actual frame might be cracked there... of course it could be just BB flex that has caused the paint to crack...
The cracked Dolan you saw in MCR belonged to Luke - he's been through three of those frames. Luke is a bleedin' animal who should be riding something made of gaspipe - someone of normal build & strength (like yourself) shouldn't have a problem. On the other hand, why risk it? Get some steel.
you really riding a 58 MM frame? if so I don't think you have to worry about it flexing enough to break though you might have problems fitting the wheels in! Nixon ( for those of you with long memories) once retired a frame thinking it was cracked there, later took a bit of emery paper to it and found it was only the paint. try sanding it down a little to see if the crack does run deeper than the paint?
Hahahahahaha! thanks for pointing that out! Yeah I'm actually a tiny pixie, I'm 10 times smaller than a human being. It's a bastard trying to find 70c x 2.3 tubes :-(
OK, so I completely forgot that my frame is cracked. The crack was definitely a crack, and it spread - it now covers almost the entire circumference of the seat tube. Bollocks!
I'm thinking of getting a steel frame but ain't sure what to go for... and I will of course need new forks and headset.... balls!
As the queen of bad choices when it comes to frames (see wooden frame, 1960's pearson that's too big for me and 1960's jack taylor that's super rare) I'm going to pass on some advice the I didn't take.
Buy and IRO. They're cheap, steel, and fairly nice.
i might end up having to buy an old man's pearson, same as mine but the right size for me (mine is slightly too long). he bought it on impulse after he saw mine, and he's hardly used it.
bonus info: he's about 77 years old and he's about as fast as me, but he looks very, very old.
Steff, that's a good idea if your not going to be riding that hard, or if you want to potentialy end up buying something that's a moment away from being cracked. There is nothing worse than replacing a only vaugly rideable frame with another only vaugly rideable frame. I should know.
If I end up having to glue in another head set or ad a brass shim as a spacer, I might just buy one of these- http://unipackuk.co.uk/track-bikes_roadcourier.html
I am a lucky bastard. Guy at bike shop phones the guy who supplies the pearson frames to him. Supplier agrees straight away to replace the frame, free of charge. Supplier is miles away and bike shop man can't pick up frame til next week. BUT! One of our van courieris is driving past the supplier in about an hour. My frame is in my hand within 2 hours of me going to the bike shop. Sweet!!!
Nhatt - point taken, and as a non-messengerer I'm neither particularly strong nor doing the sort of mileage you lot do. However, having spent some time around a lugged steel frame in process of construction (Dave Yates course - my frame was fillet brazed aside from the BB, but the other fella was doing a fully lugged frame) I do have a good deal of confidence in it as a means of producing long-lived frames. Just as importantly, I have a very very strong suspicion that when a lugged steel frame does fail it'll tend to do so a good deal more gracefully and slowly than TIGed aluminium - cracks don't propagate as fast in steel AFAIK and the lugs spread the stress around a good deal.
TIG welding isn't really the reason why aluminium snaps like it does, It's to do with the elastic (or lack of) etc properties of the metal, although that said cheap and quick welding is not going to help the integrity of the tubes in the first place.
Most mass produced contemporary steel frames are TIGed, IRO, Surly etc.
I've snapped two steel frames (both brazed) and never snapped an aluminium frame. Just the way the cookie crumbles.
For 28 quid that geof butler isn't really that bad. Sure 501 isn't all that cool, but it is equal to a lot of the cromoly that some steel bikes now are made of.
Aye, I should really have specified "TIG welding under huge time pressure" which I think probably best describes the production process for the lower-end stuff - Surly, IRO and friends strike me as a level or two above that, and clearly there's nothing intrinsically wrong with the process given that Pegoretti, Independent Fabrication et al use it. It doesn't offer any margin for error if not done well, though. Out of interest, where/how did your steel frames go?
Anyone know where I can nab a decent track frame for about £150? My beater is dying and I think it's time I went for a proper frame instead of converting old frames that seem to fall apart.
"TIG welding isn't really the reason why aluminium snaps like it does, It's to do with the elastic (or lack of) etc properties of the metal, although that said cheap and quick welding is not going to help the integrity of the tubes in the first place."
the heat from welding makes the aluminium more brittle and likely to crack, if it's welded on the cheap by someone who doesn't know what they're doing then the heat affected area* will be larger and the likelihood of failure is increased. Dolan's alu track frames have an appalling reputation for failure, fortunately they also seem to have a decent warranty department.
"technical term innit" If you want to be REALLY speccy, the correct term is HAZ, or heat affected zone. This phenomenon can affect all welds, but is particularly common in aluminium. It is characterized by a microscopic hairline fracture which appears down the centre of the weld soon after manufacture and is caused by inevitable rapid contraction of the cooling joint. Structures which are to be subjected to complex loads are sometimes checked with a non destructive testing method like penetrative dyes or x-raying, somehow I suspect that Dolan use neither. Smartypants methods of preventing this cracking invariably attempt to control the rate of cooling (F1 car buliders use special ovens), a process which is often unwieldy and very costly, hence the reason it is not usually done. Working with aluminium is pure Evil, and is often seen by professional welders as the true test of ability.